Vzvar: a Drink From the Past

What people drank in russia before the arrival of tea

Since the dawn of time, long before tea first arrived in the country, it was customary for Russians to consume hot drinks to keep warm in the winter and improve their health. It’s said that this tradition was introduced by the Varangians, the first Russian princes of Scandinavian origin. The custom took root throughout the country, and the drink was named Vzvar (infusion).

The word comes from the verbs “to infuse” or “to boil” and means a hot drink made with herbs, dried berries and dried fruits, or a thick herbal seasoning. The invariable components are honey and spices.

Each region of Russia had its own secrets of making the infusion, depending on the climate and local traditions. Russian travelers and merchants, visiting new places, often took their favorite recipes with them, thereby enriching and developing the culture of making the national drink. An important role in the spread of infusions was played by monasteries, where monks dried medicinal plants and berries, then used them to make infusions that helped them to withstand fasting. Subsequently, some infusions received new names.

Herbal infusion

This type of infusion was distinguished by the largest variety of tastes and medicinal properties. The regional features of the drinks were explained by climatic conditions and family secrets, as well as the endless search for new useful and aromatic herbs. Each peasant family had a large supply of such collections. The most popular were heather, St. John’s wort, oregano, lingonberry, raspberry and currant leaves. The herbs were dried, mixed, boiling water was added and they infused for a while, after that honey was added. The resulting drink warmed up in winter and helped to prevent colds, heart and stomach diseases. This is how folk medicine was born. In the 17th century, the first samovars appeared in Russia, tea was brought from China, and the word Vzvar was replaced by the word Sbiten. According to historians, the word meant to combine, since the ingredients were made in separate bowls and then mixed together. At that time tea was very expensive, so Sbiten remained the most popular folk drink until the end of the 19th century and was made for oneself and for sale. In winter, in city squares, at fairs, in crowded places in villages, one could always see Sbiten sellers with large copper teapots (baklags) in their hands. In the summer, chilled Sbiten was in great demand as well. With the advent of black tea, the tradition of making Sbiten began to fade away, and now it can be found in restaurants of Russian cuisine. In the 19th century, Russia began to produce and export the so-called Ivan tea (willow-herb), which was very popular and became known as Russian tea. The herbal drink was further developed in the form of collections, tinctures and infusions with medicinal herbs, which can be found in any pharmacy to this day. All the experience and knowledge that our ancestors have accumulated is collected in Herbalists, sold in any bookstore. In villages every year thousands of people collect herbs, paying tribute to the old Russian tradition.

Fruit infusion

This drink in a classic version was made with dried fruits and the addition of dried berries, aromatic herbs and honey. Boiling water was added to dried fruits and they infused; as a result, the fruits retained all their beneficial properties. The most common were apple flavors. The drink was very sweet and rich since only a small amount of water was added. It was believed that with the daily use of the drink, the immune system was strengthened, the work of the stomach and heart improved.

In the 18th century, the Russian Vzvar was replaced by the French Compote, and with it came new traditions: the drink became less thick and sweet. Currently, compote made of dried fruit is one of the most popular drinks in Russia. It is recommended to drink it for therapeutic and prophylactic purposes. It is prepared in kindergartens, school canteens, and, of course, at home. Every autumn, residents harvest fruits and prepare them to enjoy in winter.

The drink has retained its name and original recipe in Orthodox cuisine and is an integral part of the festive table on Christmas and Epiphany Eve.

Vzvars were served in any national dish made of birch bark, clay, wood, tin, glass and porcelain that was in use in one class or another, at a given historical moment. Over time, the variety of recipes and the growing interest in the national cuisine laid the foundation for the development of Russian drinking culture, when the process of preparing the Vzvar began to turn into a real ceremony.

Vzvar as a seasoning for meat dishes

The concept of “sauce” appeared in Russia in the 18th century. Before that thick sweet and sour gravies of vegetables or berries, also called Vzvars, were served with meals made of meat, poultry and game. The most common were onion, cabbage, cranberry and lingonberry Vzvars. Vegetables were finely chopped and stewed (boiled) for a long time with the addition of vinegar, honey and spices, which gave the same sweet and sour taste. In this case, only sauerkraut was used. Berry Vzvars were prepared on the basis of honey and flour. Unlike foreign sauces, the Vzvars were served only hot.

Thick vegetable Vzvars have practically disappeared from use, as the cooking process takes a long time. Yet, Russian gourmets are increasingly showing interest in old national meals and spices, aiming to make and taste food of their distant ancestors.

“Finely chop the onion, sauté with fat, add sauerkraut squeezed from the brine, a little water or broth and simmer for 1–2 hours; at the end of stewing, add honey, ground pepper”. Vasily Levshin, Cabbage potion recipe.

The culture of Russian traditional drinks is very rich with over 1,500 varieties of Vzvars alone. Studying the history of their making, we plunge into the past, as well as become closer to nature, learn to appreciate and love what surrounds us.

Based on the works of Ruslan Latushkin, ethnographer of traditional Russian infusions